Standing up to the wickets is the most difficult element of wicket-keeping to master and is an area where great keepers are distinguished from good ones. With the evolution of the modern game towards shorter formats and more aggressive batting, wicket-keepers are expected to effectively be able to stand up to the wickets in order to prevent the batsman from being able to advance down the pitch.
Distance from Wickets
1.When standing up, the wicket-keeper must attempt to get his body and gloves as close to the wickets as possible for the following reasons:
2.It reduces the time required to make a stumping as the keeper has to move his gloves a shorter distance to the wickets; and
When standing up to the wickets, the keeper rarely has enough time to move his gloves to catch a ball edged by the batsman. Therefore, by keeping his gloves as close to the wickets as possible, the keeper is able to reduce the distance between the batsman’s bat and his gloves, and the angle of any deflection / deviation caused as a result of the batsman edging the ball is also effectively reduced. This gives the wicket-keeper the best possible chance of being able to take the catch. The schematic in Figure 1 illustrates how this principle works. A wicket-keeper with his gloves in Position 1 will manage to catch a ball edged by the batsman that he would not have been able to catch if his gloves were further away from the wickets in Position 2.
Line outside Off-Stump
When standing up to the stumps, the wicket-keeper must take his stance slightly outside the line of off-stump. He must be in a position that allows him to clearly watch a standard delivery in the line of off-stump from the bowlers hand and onto the batsman’s bat (or alternatively into his own gloves). It is important that the wicket-keeper is able to see the bowler’s wrist in his delivery action as this will allow him to immediately determine the line of the ball and get into position to take the delivery as early as possible. It is also important that the keeper does not stand too wide of off-stump as this will make it more difficult for him to take balls down the leg side due to the distance that he has to move in a short period of time.
Although the line could differ slightly for different batsmen or bowlers, Figure 2 illustrates the typical positioning of the wicket-keeper when standing up to the wickets for a right-handed batsman.
For pace bowlers, the slower ball can be a real weapon. Instead of gripping the ball with two fingers next to each other on the seam, split your index and middle finger as wide as you can either side of the ball to disperse the power you put on to the ball when bowling. This can lead to a slight lack of control, so when practicing the slower ball, you may need to focus on direction rather than pace too, though a well executed slower ball deceives the batsman. Keep the ball hidden from the batsman on run up to prevent them from reading the delivery.
Another delivery that can cause problems for batsman is the cutter. Hold the ball as usual, with your index and middle finger on the seam, but on delivery, drop your fingers off the right of the ball for an off cutter (and off the left of the ball for a leg cutter). This imparts rotation on the ball, and cause some movement off of the surface of the pitch. It also slows the delivery down, which gives the ball more chance to move off the pitch and therefore cause the batsman to play the wrong line.
Here is some useful information you can start using right away:
Hang onto the cricket ball as long as possible.
By doing this you create a large arm pull, which maximises the ‘catapult’ effect. The last thing you do when you bowl is let the ball go
Try not to get your arm overly high.
If you imagine a 12-hour clock, as viewed from the batsman’s end, the bowling arm can be any hour before 12 but not a minute past. For every minute you go past 12 o’clock you are affectively leaning across to bowl and this reduces both your speed and accuracy. If you have a very high action, you are likely to only bowl inswing. If you find this is the case, try to lower your arm to around 11 o’clock
A front on bowler tends to have more ground speed than a sideways bowler.
This is because a front on bowler doesn’t have to jump so high as they do not need to turn their back foot sideways. If you do need to jump at the crease, we are looking for long jump rather than high jump. Simply ensure that you do not lean back when your back foot lands either. This makes it harder to transfer your weight from back foot to front foot
Imagine you are bowling in a railway track.
This will help you run-up straight, keep your weight moving in a straight line in your action and follow-through straight. If it doesn’t go at the batsman, then change it!
Your non-bowling arm is far more important than your bowling arm.
Use it properly by driving it out and down so it passes your side. When you do this properly, it will accelerate your bowling shoulder and help increase speed
Keep your elbows and arms pumping in as you run up and load up into your action.
Nothing throws your momentum and straight lines off like unnecessary side-to-side movements. Keeping your action ‘tight’ helps you to control the release of the ball
Make sure you fully rotate your shoulders on completion of action.
If you have a name on your back imagine you are going to show it to the batsman when you finish. This will help you think about how much of a shoulder turn you’re aiming for
Try to drive your chest through the crease just before you let the ball go.
The sensation is that of being pulled forward by the batsman with a big rope attached to your chest. This gets you ‘as far in front of the ball’ as possible and increases arm pull and speed of the arm
At the point of delivery, your hips and nose will be facing the batsman.
If your bowling hip is ‘lazy’ it will lag behind thus dropping your speed. If your nose isn’t facing the batsman, your head is probably falling away. The hips are the powerhouse of your body. Get them in the right position
Try not to throw your non-bowling arm too high as it gets you off balance and affects your timing.
Remember, you’re trying to go forwards, not up and down
Your bowling arm starts to bowl from the downswing,
which is close to your bowling side hip. Getting your bowling hand into this position quickly from your load-up helps you improve your speed and timing
Spin Bowling Tricks
As a spin bowler, you are always looking to deceive the batsman. The topspin delivery can be very effective as it appears to be a rotating ball in flight, much like a normal spin delivery. The difference is, on release (whether a finger-spinner or wrist-spinner) roll your fingers over the front of the ball rather than to either side. This topspin causes the ball to dip from its flight more noticeably in front of the batsman, causing them to be on the front foot when the ball actually requires them to be on the back foot. The extra bounce generated by a topspinner then makes the batsman susceptible to top edging the ball for a catch.
Hold the ball across the seam, as this helps generate more back spin on the ball as it travels through the air so that it carries further.
Take a big stride and establish a strong side-on throwing base, with your lead foot pointing at your target and the back foot at 90 degrees to it. Stay relaxed with your knees bent.
Bring your throwing arm back, point with your front arm at or slightly above your target.
Keep throwing elbow above shoulder height.
As you throw bring your non-throwing arm in towards your body and rotate/push your hips and shoulders through towards your target.
Your throwing arm should come through the line of your target as you release the ball.
As you throw you should feel a slight weight transfer from the back foot to the front foot, don’t forget to allow your body to follow through naturally once you’ve released the ball.
Aim to always throw the ball above the stumps, ideally to the wicket keeper or bowler on the full (with out bouncing) or with one bounce a few meters in front of the stumps, so that it bounces up above them.
To practice throwing is simply a case of repetitive practice of throwing at the wicket keeper or at a stump or set of stumps (if you’re practicing going for direct hits run out chances). Practice at different ranges and positions on the field.
Also practice under pressure situations. You could have batsmen running between the wickets and you have to field the ball and try to run them out by getting the throw in accurately to the keeper before they complete the run(s). Practicing under pressure will help you a lot when it comes to having to perform in matches, where stopping a single or a two could make the difference between winning and losing.
Reflect Catches – Training Tips
Reflect catches are those where you don’t have time to think about catching the ball, but where your body responds to its training automatically, as its trained response is to try and catch the ball, such as those catches at slip or short leg, where there is only a fraction of a second to respond and take the catch.
To practice reflect catches there are a number of drills you can do:
For example, get three players, a few cricket balls and find some space on the out field.
One person sits on the ground with their legs out to the front and hands out ready to catch.
The other two players then alternately throw their ball (one at a time) to either side of the catcher, who has to try to catch the ball and return it to the thrower.
To make the drill harder, the thrower can increase the distance away from catcher with which they throw the ball and reduce the time between throws, so that the catcher is almost non-stop catching and returning and catching.
The drill then repeat itself but with the catcher moving up on to their knees, then squatting and then standing. Do a minute or two in each position before rotating on to the next person in the group.
This drill is great for reactions, speed and agility and gets very tiring for the catcher if done properly.
Other drills include using catching cradles; catching nets and the traditional one of having some one throw the ball at a batter who then deflects it to a group of fielders in a ring behind.
Fitness (very briefly)
Fitness is very important in cricket, just like any other sport, as physical and mental fitness are intricately linked. Being and staying fit will help you remain alert and responsive for long games and is especially important for batting.
Aim to develop a consistent training programme, try to run 3 or 4 times a week and do some circuit training or strength training to remain in good physical condition.
The grip principles are the same for right and left-handers.
For a right-hander the left hand should be at the top of the handle – vice versa for a left-hander.
Check both your hands are fairly close together on the bat, towards the top of the handle.
Form a “V” by pointing your thumb and forefinger down between outside edge and centre of back of bat.
The top hand rests comfortably on the inside of the front thigh (left thigh for a right hander).
And the back of the top hand should face towards extra cover.
Batting Stance
The stance is the “ready” position when the batsman is about to face a delivery.
It is the base to play all your shots, so remember to be comfortable and relaxed.
Points to remember:
The feet should be approximately a foot length apart either side or on the popping crease
The weight of the batsman should be on the balls of their feet, with the knees slightly bent. This means they can transfer quickly to either their front or back foot depending on the length of the ball
The batsman should be side on when the bowler is about to deliver
Some batsmen prefer to open their stance to help them see the ball clearer
Here’s how to… get the correct backlift and step
Most batsmen will raise their bat as the bowler approaches.
Taking the bat back and stepping to the ball sets the batsman up for playing the correct shot properly.
The bat is taken back towards the stumps and at the top of the backlift the face should open towards second slip.
The front shoulder should roll down as the bat is lifted, with the head kept as still as possible.
Keep the hands close to the back hip, so that toe of the bat is at around shoulder height.
Ensure any movement forward or back is completed before the downswing of the bat begins.
Front foot shots
Straight Drive
Master the straight drive
The straight drive is one of the most classical shots in a batsman’s repertoire.
It is usually played to a full length delivery on or outside off stump.
Most of the work is done by the top hand, with the bottom hand lending support, to keep the ball along the ground.
The forward defensive shot
A straight ball on a good length has to be treated with respect.
The principle of a forward defensive stroke is to block the ball rather than to score runs.
Every batsman needs a solid defence to build big scores.
Learn the sweep shot
The sweep has become the favoured shot against spinners, especially by England’s batsmen.
It is a cross-batted shot played to a delivery on or around leg stump behind square on the leg side.
There’s an element of risk when you play the shot, so read on to make sure you don’t give your wicket away needlessly.
Playing the front foot leg glance
The front foot glance is more a deflection rather than a stroke because it relies on pace already on the ball.
The placement comes from a flick of the wrists at the moment of impact, so the bat face is angled rather than straight.
Make sure your head is over the ball, with your weight on your front foot.
This will keep the ball on the ground, rather than flying dangerously in the air.
Back foot shots
The back foot defence
It’s not the most glamorous shot, but it’s a hugely important one, especially when facing fast bowling on a bouncy wicket.
If the ball is pitched on the stumps – but short of a good length – it needs to be played safely.
Going forward to a delivery like this is dangerous and you’ll also increase the chance of getting out.
Going back on your crease and meeting the ball at the top of its bounce will help you to be in full control of the shot.
Also, try to meet the ball with soft hands.
This means relaxing your hands on the bat handle, which helps to take the pace off the ball and reduces the chances of getting caught near the wicket.
The back foot leg glance
Most international players are very strong when the ball is pitched on or around leg stump.
If you can play this shot well, you’ll definitely pick up runs square and behind the wicket on the leg side.
The timing and control of the shot comes from the wrists. A little flick at the moment of impact will close the face of the bat, helping the ball to the boundary.
You’ll need good balance when playing the shot, with your head over the ball. It’s a great shot to play against opening bowlers because it relies on the ball coming onto the bat.
The square cut
If bowlers give most batsmen a short and wide delivery outside off stump, chances are they’ll be hit for four square of the wicket.
The square cut allows batsmen to free their arms and hit the ball with a cross bat, enabling them to get plenty of power on the shot.
But be careful, although a square cut can bag you plenty of runs, it can also lead to your downfall if you get too confident.
Driving off the back foot
This is one of the best looking cricket shots you can play.
It enables you to score runs in the area between mid-on and cover to a delivery just short of a length.
As with all other back foot shots, you’ll need good balance and quick feet movement.
But unlike the hook or square cut, the back foot drive relies more on timing and placement rather than power.
The hook shot
There are a few differences between the pull and hook
Where the pull is played to a ball around waist height, the hook is played to a short delivery between chest and head height.
A word of warning, the hook is the riskiest – and potentially the most dangerous – shot to play in cricket.
It’s played to a short pitched delivery around your chest and head and so is the most difficult shot to control.
It’s very difficult to roll your wrists playing the hook, so it’s likely to be in the air for a few seconds.
